Xwémalhkwu

— Janet Wilson, my Xwémalhkwu—or Homalco First Nation—guide for the day, leads me past this misfit marine feast and up a crescent beach to the now uninhabited village of Aupe: the place where her mother was stolen from her family and taken to a residential school, a place overflowing with trauma, yet a place that somehow still holds some semblance of hope for the future.