由于地理环境、气候长期形成的习俗的影响,导致了中西餐饮在观念、方式、对象、礼仪、饮食结构等方面的差异,揭示这些差异以及内在的原因,有助于从理论和实践两个方面深化跨文化交际研究。
1、中西饮食观念的差异
历史上,中国是世界上古老的国家之一,有5000年的悠久而厚重的历史,创造了无数的灿烂文明,在这种文化蕴藏中,使中国的饮食更加博大精深。随着时间的流逝以及辽阔国土的地域差异,四大菜系逐渐形成,四大菜系自成体系,各有特点,但共同点是用料复杂考究,制作方法复杂,口味、菜式多种多样,令人惊叹。
西方以欧美为代表,其文化同样源远流长。到中世纪,欧洲文化已十分完善,在此期间,旧西方的饮食文化已经形成。其主要特点为:主食以面粉为主,原料也较为丰富,制作方法较中国简单,但同时也十分注重口味。
由于中西哲学思想的不同,西方人于饮食重科学。重科学即讲求营养。故西方饮食以营养为高准则,进食犹如为一生物的机器添加燃料,特别讲求食物的营养成分,蛋白质、脂肪、碳水化合物、维生素及各类无机元素的含量是否搭配合宜,热量的供给是否恰到好处以及这些营养成分是否能为进食者充分吸收,有无其他副作用。这些问题都是烹调中的大学问,而菜肴的色、香、味如何,则是次一等的要求。即或在西方首屈一指的饮食大国--法国,其饮食文化虽然在很多方面与我们近似,但一接触到营养问题,双方便拉开了距离。
中国五味调和的烹调术旨在追求美味,其加工过程中的热油炸和长时间的文火攻,都会使菜肴的营养成分被破坏。法国烹调虽亦追求美味,但同时总不忘“营养”这一大前提,一味含营养而求美味是他们所不取的。尤其是20世纪60年代出现的现代烹调思想,特别强调养生、减肥,从而追求清淡少油,强调采用新鲜原料,强调烹调过程中保持原有的营养成分和原有的味道,所以蔬菜基本上都是生吃。所以说西方饮食之重营养是带有普遍性的。
2、中西饮食对象的差异
西方人认为菜肴是充饥的,所以专吃大块肉、整块鸡等“硬菜”;而中国的菜肴是“吃味”的。所以中国烹调在用料上也显出极大的随意性:许多西方人视为弃物的东西,在中国都是极好的原料,外国厨师无法处理的东西,一到中国厨师手里,就可以化腐朽为神奇。足见中国饮食在用料方面的随意性之广博。
据西方植物学者的调查,中国人吃的菜蔬有600多种,比西方多6倍。实际上,在中国人的菜肴里,素菜是平常食品,荤菜只有在节假日或生活水平较高时,才进入平常的饮食结构,所以自古便有“菜食”之说,菜食在平常的饮食结构中占主导地位。中国人的以植物为主菜,与佛教徒的鼓吹有着千丝万缕的联系。佛教便视动物为“生灵”,而植物则“无灵”,所以,主张素食主义。
西方人在介绍自己国家的饮食特点时,觉得比中国更重视营养的合理搭配,有较为发达的食品工业,如罐头、快餐等,虽口味千篇一律,但节省时间,且营养良好。故他们国家的人身体普遍比中国人健壮:高个、长腿、宽大的肩、发达的肌肉;而中国人则显得身材瘦小、肩窄腿短、色黄质弱。有人根据中西方饮食对象的明显差异这一特点,把中国人称为植物性格,西方人称为动物性格。
3、中西钦食方式、餐具及礼仪的不同
中西方的饮食方式有很大不同,这种差异对民族性格也有影响。在中国,任何一个宴席,不管是什么目的,都只会有一种形式,就是大家团团围坐,共享一席;筵席要用圆桌,这就从形式上造成了一种团结、礼貌、共趣的气氛。美味佳肴放在一桌人的中心,它既是一桌人欣赏、品尝的对象,又是一桌人感情交流的媒介物。人与人相互敬酒、相互让菜、劝菜,在美好的事物面前,体现了人与人之间相互尊重、争让的美德。虽然从卫生的角度看,这种饮食方式有明显的不足之处,但它符合我们民族“大团圆”的普遍心态,反映了中国古典哲学中“和”这个范畴对后代思想的影响,便于集体的情感交流,因而至今难以改革。
在餐具方面,差异就更甚明显。众所周知,中国人包括亚洲一些黄种人的国家,使用的是筷子、汤匙,吃饭也用碗盛;而西方人呢,则是盘子盛食物,用刀叉即切即吃,喝汤则有专门的汤匙。筷子与刀叉作为东西方具代表性的两种餐具,筷子和刀叉影响了东西方不同的生活方式,代表着不同的两种智慧。名气大的物理学家、诺贝尔物理奖获得者李政道博士,在接受一位日本记者采访时,也有一段很精辟的论述:“中华民族是个优秀民族,中国人早在春秋战国时期就使用了筷子。如此简单的两根东西,却是高妙绝伦地运用了物理学上的杠杆原理。筷子是人类手指的延伸,手指能做的事它几乎都能做,而且不怕高温与寒冷。真是高明极了!”
在礼仪方面,中西两者更显不同。在中国古代,在用餐过程中,就有一套繁文缛节。《礼记·曲记》载:“共食不饱,共饭不择手,毋放饭,……毋固获,毋扬饭,……卒食,客自前跪,撒饭齐以授相者,主人辞于客,然后客坐。”这段话大意主要是:大家共同吃饭时,不可以只顾自己吃饭。如果和别人一起吃饭,必须检查手的清洁。不要把多余的饭放回锅里,不要专占着食物,也不要簸扬着热饭。吃完饭后,客人应该起身向前收拾桌上的盘碟,交给主人,主人跟着起身,请客人不要劳动,然后客人再坐下。这些礼仪有的在现代也是必要的礼貌。在西方宴席上,主人一般只给客人夹一次菜,其余由客人自主食用:若客人不要,也不便硬让人家再吃,也不要按中国人的习惯频频给客人劝酒、夹菜。吃东西时,也不要发出响声,但客人要注意赞赏主人准备的饭菜。若与人谈话,只能与邻座的交谈,不要与距离远的人交谈。
4、中西饮食性质的差异
饮食观念的不同,使西方饮食倾向于科学、理性,中国饮食倾向于艺术、感性。烹调出自饮食,饮食原来是一个旨在供给维持生命的营养。西方饮食习俗的着重点仅仅是原始的饮食实用性的延伸;而中国饮食习俗中对味的偏重,就把饮食推向了艺术的殿堂。从这两种饮食观可以看出:西方饮食日趋规范化,中,国饮食随意性大。
中西方饮食文化差异是明显的,而且各有长处。随着经济全球化及信息变流的加快,中西饮食文化将在碰撞中不断融合,在融合中相互互补。现在的中餐已开始注重食物的营养性、健康性和烹饪的科学性;西餐也开始向中餐的色、香、味、意、形的境界发展。中西餐饮文化将在交流中共同发展。
Affect consuetudinarily as a result of what geographical environment, climate forms for a long time, brought about meal of Chinese and Western to wait for the difference of the respect in structure of idea, means, object, formal, diet, announce these difference and underlying reason, conduce to from theory and practice two respects are deepened cross culture intercourse research.
1, the difference of concept of food of Chinese and Western
On the history, china is one of old states on the world, have 5000 long and the history of massiness, created countless bright culture, in contain of this kind of culture, make Chinese food more broad and profound. As time elapse and the district difference of extensive land, department of 4 big vegetable is formed gradually, department of 4 big vegetable becomes a system oneself, each have a characteristic, but common feature is to use material is complex fastidious, the method that make is complex, type of taste, dish is varied, exclaim making a person.
The west with Euramerican for the delegate, its culture is likewise of long standing and well established. Arrive mediaeval, european culture is very perfect already, during this, the dietary culture of old west has been formed. Are its main is the characteristic: ?
As a result of thought of philosophy of Chinese and Western different, hesperian weighs science at food. Heavy science namely nutrition of be particular about. Reason west food is high standard with nutrition, take food be just as the machine that is lifetime content to add fuel, composition of nutrition of alimental of special be particular about, the content of protein, adipose, carbohydrate, vitamin and of all kinds and inorganic element is convenient, caloric supply is proper and whether can these nutrient composition be the person that take food to be absorbed adequately, have without other secondary action. These problems are the big science in cook, and the color of dish, sweet, flavour how, it is first-class requirement. Namely or the dietary big country in western the first of all- - France, although its food culture is in a lot of respects and we are approximate, but problem of nutrition of one bring into contact with, both sides pulled open a distance.
The cookery with Chinese harmonic the five flavors aims to go after delicate, its machine the hot deepfry in the process and long article fire attack, can make the nutrient composition of dish is destroyed. Although French cook also is gone after delicate, but always do not forget at the same time " nutrition " this one major premise, contain nutrition blindly and beg delicate their place is not taken. Especially 20 centuries the contemporary cook thought that 60 time appear, particularly strong take good care of sb is unripe, reduce weight, go after thereby delicate little oil, emphasize using new raw material, the nutrition that in emphasizing cooking process, keeps original becomes cent and original flavour, so vegetable basically is to eat raw. The heavy nutrition that says western food so contains catholicity.
2, the difference of object of food of Chinese and Western
Hesperian thinks dish is allay one's hunger, eat chunk flesh, whole chicken to wait only so " good food " ; and Chinese dish is " have taste " . Is so Chinese cook being used is huge also shown on makings optional sex: ? Does alarm of dumpling of Ji bridle tan swim mace mu does of ù of a kind of sedge of ξ of of of rare of of head of Mei of of Qiang of border of of discharge of Shi of sole holding sb in respectful awe vast is mu of sole bad does κ of of street discharge cast Zheng Tu Sao says Jin of of bridle?
According to the investigation of western plant scholar, the dishes at a meal that the Chinese eats has 600 a variety of, 6 times more than the west. Actually, in the Chinese's dish, lenten it is usual provision, meat dishes is only when holiday or living standard are higher, just enter common dietary structure, have since ancient times so " dish is fed " say, dish is fed dominant place is taken in common dietary structure. Of the Chinese give priority to dish with the plant, with Buddhist advertise the connection that having countless ties. Buddhism inspects an animal to be " the people " , and plant criterion " without clever " , so, maintain maigre principle.
When Hesperian is introducing the dietary characteristic of own country, feel to take reasonable collocation of nutrition seriously more than China, have relatively the food industry that develop, wait like potted, snack, although taste is machine-made, but economic time, and nutrition is good. Does the person body of their country compare reason generally is the Chinese hale: ? ね of ⒊ of Zha an ancient wine vessel made of horn takes? of ∪ of collect of mace of ⒋ of ⒎ of Yun of collect of ⒖ Xue Shan and the Chinese appears figure thin and small, shoulder is narrow leg weak point, lubricious Huang Zhiruo. Somebody the apparent difference of object of food of the west in the basis this one characteristic, call the Chinese plant disposition, hesperian calls animal nature.
3, admire of Chinese and Western feeds means, tableware to reach differ formally
Dietary means of the west has in very big different, this differentia different is influential also to nationality case. Be in China, any banquet, no matter be what purpose, can have a kind of form only, it is everybody is surrounded all round sit, share banquet of one banquet; to want to use round-table, this caused a kind of solidarity, courtesy from formally, in all interesting atmosphere. Delicate cate is put in the center of one desk person, its since appreciation of one desk person, sampled object, it is the intermediary that feeling of one desk person communicates. Person and person propose a toast each other, photograph give-and-take dish, persuade dish, before good thing, reflected respect each other between person and person, argue the virtue that yield. Although look from healthful angle, means of this kind of food has obvious insufficient place, but it accords with our nation " end-all " general state of mind, in reflecting Chinese classic philosophy " and " this scope effect to unborn thought, facilitate collective affection communicates, reform hard up to now consequently.
In tableware respect, difference more very apparent. Well-known, the Chinese includes the country of people of a few the yellow race, those who use is chopstick, spoon, have a meal to also be used the bowl fills; and Hesperian, it is dish fills food, cut namely with knife and fork eat namely, drink Shang Zeyou's special spoon. Chopstick and knife and fork just provide two kinds of representative dinner service as the thing, chopstick and knife and fork affected the way of life that the thing just differs, representing two kinds of different wisdom. Doctor of path of Li Zheng of gainer of award of physics of the physicist with big name, Nobel, when accepting a Japanese reporter to interview, also have a paragraph of very incisive treatise: ? Does pa thank catfish of Da apology waiting till to sentence Gua of entangled of cough of of discharge of of Dan of Da n/HONNing be unworthy of the honor to breathe out neptunium anxious to force silk of be ignorant of of A Chinese-style unlined garment of imperial mandate fade sunlights imprint does the Song Dynasty of be ignorant of of Sou of divinatory symbols of vertebra of Guo Li of apology of word of of sole of of of reef of herd of サ of Sai Meng of H stitch the sole to the upper hold in custody press or rub against? Sunlight is dead Suo of mail live abroad planted is Fu Nan planted by Yu does negative Ju of of filter of neon of Bao changing Long send of of Long an ancient drinking vessel does Nao of confused also Lu sweep past of Ku of Guo of uglying apology of U of Huan of of an official document or note?"
In formal respect, chinese and Western is both more show different. In Chinese ancient time, in have dinner process, have a red tape. " is music of · of The Book of Rites written down " carry: ? Chang of of scar of leave uncovered of willful of of of of Ou Geng of Zhui of of Zheng of Bo Gonghui Qia of of ィ of pagoda tree of Ang colour mew carves of Ying of Ang of Tuo Yun of constant of Guan of of stalk shows Kuang of cowardly of Shun of evil spirit of of Lu of Sou of know well of allow of guanidine of a legendary venomous insect to stop ! Shut error when by? of of Tao of hut of large bamboo hat everybody has a meal jointly, cannot have a meal with considering oneself only. If have a meal together with others, what must check a hand is clean. Do not put redundant rice in cook again, taking food only, also do not want winnow to wear hot meal. After eating a meal, the guest should rise to clear away dish of dish on the desk ahead, give master, host rises accordingly, ask a guest not to work, next the guest sits down again. These formal some are in contemporary also be necessary courtesy. On western banquet, host places dish to the guest only commonly, does the others use: from staple food by the guest? Does Wen of pagoda tree of arm of of grey of Meng leg twinkling step on bud to think of does with arm of couple abundant of grey wide release say south does Si of leg of of skip of Ang sip lamp boil excuse me of Pi ⒓ coerce does have a nightmare of 3 far protect arm ash leg of of of of warm up of ⒊ You?
4, the difference of quality of food of Chinese and Western
Of dietary concept different, make western food apt scientific, rational, art of Chinese food apt, perceptual. Cook out food, food is one aims to furnish so the nutrition that maintains life. The move with western consuetudinary food is the outspread; with primitive practical food merely mainly and Chinese food is consuetudinary in the lay particular stress on to flavour, promote food to artistic hall. Can from this concept of two kinds of food see: ? Does tan uncover orange to go up does of of of school of of of Bei Di blain multiply toad of play Wu source?
Difference of western food culture is apparent in, and each have advantage. Change as economic globalization and information flow accelerate, culture of food of Chinese and Western will be uninterrupted in collision shirt-sleeve, mutual in confluence complementary. Present Chinese meal already began to pay attention to alimental the state that the Western-style food of scientific sex; of nutritional, healthy sex and cooking also begins the color to Chinese meal, sweet, flavour, meaning, look develops. Culture of meal of Chinese and Western is communicating the Communist Party of China to develop together.