晋商服饰文化？英文双语对照

晋商服饰大多采用"无结构"的模式，也就是俗称的"宽袍大袖"，这种自然形式与儒家精神的内核相适应，也与晋商家族的经商理念有一定的契合之处。

山西商人对于服装结构的要求比较随意，没有经过太多繁杂的设计，但格外注重制作衣服时的工艺技术和面料选材。山西商人认为，衣服的样式能够体现一个人整体的精气神，但是在古代，服装的剪裁方式只能是平面剪裁，所以衣服与人体之间无法真正的贴合，展现不出人体形态之美，因此他们只能从衣服的品质入手，注重面料本身的价值和制作工艺的水准。晋商对于服装的要求折射出他们尊重自然规律、重视内在的精神特质。

二、晋商服饰发展过程

晋商家族与普通的官绅家族有很大的区别，他们有着严格的家训，独特的家风，以及世代传承的理念信仰，所以早期的晋商服饰并不苛求富贵繁荣，而是相当低调朴素，比如女性上身通常贴身穿着菱形遮胸布，外穿对襟窄袖短衫，白色、绯色等不显眼的浅色是妇女的主要选择。而她们的下身一般身穿宽松型的长裤，颜色是褐色或者黑色等深色系。这种穿衣风格充满了农家的气息，朴实无华是晋商前期服饰文化的主要特点。

这种风格一直延续到了晋商的鼎盛繁荣时期。商业的成功带给晋商极大的虚荣心，虽然他们在做生意的方面还依然安分守己，但他们的服饰已经发生了截然不同的变化。无论男女，他们都在追求一种富贵华丽的气息。男子习惯穿长袍马褂来显示自己尊贵的社会地位，而山西大商户中的女子大多喜欢身穿套服，将褂、袍、裙这三种样式的衣服合为一体，显示出金贵的特点。

山西商人服饰

到了清朝光绪年间，服饰所代表的等级制度进一步崩塌，晋商的服饰随之变得更加纷繁华贵了，在那一时期，晋商的服饰文化一度在社会上形成一种潮流，成为了时尚的先锋。在中式服装的基础之上，山西商人又广泛学习，从归国留学生带回的西式服装造型之中吸收精髓，使服装变得更加标新立异。西式服装比中式服装更加贴合身形，更加细致精巧，所以清代晋商的男装虽然在基本款式上还是偏向传统服饰，大多身穿宽衣大袍，但是在衣服的剪裁方面有所收缩，更能体现出山西商人的精气神。

晋商服饰发展到清朝末期，最经典的搭配就是长袍配马褂。按照理论来说，晚清人对传统的长袍进行了收身的剪裁，马褂也应该相应的进行收缩，这样才能达到内外协调的效果，但有趣的是，山西商人大胆的把马褂变得更加宽松，它仅能略微超过腰线，类似于今天的超短装。由此可见，晚清时期的山西商人已经形成了一种独特的穿衣风格，其兼收并蓄的服饰文化也已经基本成型。

Advance trade dress uses " not to have the mode of structural " mostly, namely the " of big sleeve of " wide gown that common weighs, the kernel photograph of this kind of natural form and Confucianist spirit suits, also be in business familially with advance business the concept has the proper place that agree.

Shanxi businessman is more optional to the requirement of dress structure, did not pass too much and multifarious design, but the engineering technology when paying attention to the dress that make all the more and fabrics select material. Shanxi businessman thinks, the style of the dress can reflect the essence of one individual whole to enrage a god, but in ancient time, the clipping means of dress can be planar clipping only, so between the dress and human body cannot true joint, do not show the beauty that gives human body form, accordingly they can the character proceed with from the dress, pay attention to the value of fabrics itself and the level of the craft that make. Advance business goes them to respect the order of nature to the requirement reflection of dress, take immanent spirit seriously idiosyncratic.

2, advance trade dress develops a process

Advance business is familial as familial as common Guan Shen have very big distinction, they are having rigid domestic standard, distinctive domestic wind, and the concept of for generations inheritance is devotional, inchoate advance trade dress is not so exacting riches and honour flourishs, comparative however low-key and simple, for instance female the upper part of the body sticks cloth of pectoral of body dress lozenge normally, a kind of Chinese-style jacket with buttons down the front is worn outside narrow sleeve short unlined upper garment, the inconspicuous light color such as color of white, red is main alternative of the woman. And their private parts is worn commonly comfortable model trousers, color is Brown or the brunet department such as black. This kind of clad style was full of the breath of farmhouse, simple and unadorned the main characteristic that is culture of dress of advance business early days.

This kind of style continues to the period of prosperity of at the height of power and splendour of advance business all the time. Commercial success brings advance business huge vanity, although they are in,the respect of deal is returned still, but their dress had produced disparate change. No matter men and women, they are going after the breath with a kind of luxuriant riches and honour. Man habit wears the social class that aba mandarin jacket will come to show he is exalted, and Shanxi is big the woman in business door likes to wear layette mostly, a Chinese-style unlined garment, gown, skirt the dress of these 3 kinds of styles closes for an organic whole, show Jin Gui's characteristic.

Shanxi businessman dress

Arrived between quiet day Guang Xunian, the grade institution that dress place represents collapses further, the dress of advance business becomes subsequently more numerous and complicated is showily, in that one period, the dress culture of advance business forms a kind of tide socially for a time, made fashionable van. On the foundation of Chinese style dress, shanxi businessman learns extensively again, the Western-style dress that brings back from homecoming student studying abroad absorbs marrow in modelling, make dress becomes more do sth unconventional or unorthodox. Western-style dress compares Chinese style dress more joint body form, more meticulous and exquisite, qing Dynasty is so acting although the men's clothing of advance business is in on basic design still be deflection tradition dress, wear big robe of take off your coat mostly, but contract somewhat in the clipping respect of the dress, the spirit that can reflect a Shanxi businessman more enrages a god.

Advance trade dress develops quiet day evening, the most classical collocation is aba matchs mandarin jacket. According to theory for, late clear person undertook collecting the cut out unwanted material of the body to traditional aba, mandarin jacket also should corresponding undertake systole, such ability achieve the result with harmonious inside and outside, but interesting is, of bravery of Shanxi business National People's Congress become mandarin jacket more comfortable, it only can appreciably exceeds lumbar line, be similar to today's exceed be dressed in a Chinese-style jacket and trousers. This shows, the Shanxi businessman of late quiet period had formed a kind of distinctive clad color, the dress culture of its incorporate things of diverse nature shapes already basically also.