客家菜如同客家语一样古老,是中华饮食文化重要组成部分,主要流行于广东的惠州、河源、梅州、深圳、韶关;江西的赣州;福建的龙岩、汀州;广西的贺州、玉林;台湾桃园县、新竹县、苗栗县等地。 [1] 客家菜肴风味的形成跟客家民系的形成是分不开的,客家菜保留着中原传统的生活习俗特色。 [2]
传统的客家招牌菜是盐焗鸡、客家酿豆腐、客家盆菜、猪肚鸡、酿苦瓜、梅菜扣肉、三杯鸭、三及第汤、腌面、艾粄、萝卜粄、碗粄、白斩河田鸡、兜汤、汀州泡猪腰、仙人冻、麒麟脱胎、盆菜、四星望月、芋子包、芋子饺等与潮州菜比较,客家菜的口感偏重“肥、咸、熟”,在粤菜或闽菜系中独树一帜。
客家菜就地域来分,又有梅州流派、东江流派(惠州、河源、深圳等东江客家地区)、北江流派(韶关、清远境内的客家人聚居地区 [3-4] )、闽西流派(长汀、龙岩等福建客家地区)、赣南流派(赣州等江西客家地区) [5] 。
其中长汀(汀州)(2005年11月)和梅州(2006年1月)为中国烹饪协会公布的中国客家菜之乡。
经典菜式
在榜上有名的系指东江客家菜,它与潮菜、粤菜并称为广东三大菜系。传统的客家招牌菜是:梅州盐焗鸡、酿豆腐和红烧肉。与潮菜比较,客家菜的口感偏重“肥、咸、熟”,而这又与客家人以往的生活水平和习惯有关。 首先,因为以往客家人耕山住山,劳动强度大而荤食少,肥腻一点的食品能有效充饥;其次,客家人因长期粮食不足,即使比较富裕的大户一天至少要吃一餐粥,多数人家长年累月顿顿稀饭,而且水多米少,煲成的粥“吹去一层浪,喝来一条巷”,菜咸既适合送粥,又增加体内盐份;再次,山区草木多,养成了客家人不惜柴木的习惯,且他们觉得火候烹得越到食物越香。
【 原味可口】 诚然,社会在不断变革,在如今的社会主义新时期,客家菜也在不断创新。传统的东江菜在现代客家人的锅头里,逐步形成了自己的地方特色,有“原汁原味,可口可心”之美誉。
广东客家酿豆腐(3张
【原汁原味】 主要源于三个方面:一是选料讲求野生家养粗种的食物,即没有污染的“绿色食品”。值得一提的是,这些食品的质量好、味道好与客家人的生态环境好尤其是水好有着很大的关系;二是烹调方法采用煮、煲、蒸和炖等居多,不破坏食物的营养与纤维;三是极少添加甚至不加过重过浓的佐料,一般用生葱熟蒜调味。
【可口可心】 所谓可口可心,系指清淡的口感、实惠的价码和调和的作用。其调和作用类似现代术语“饮食疗法”。客家菜中不少有滋阴降火、清肝明目、壮腰补肾、养颜益气等功效。对于2014年,客家菜除有传统的盐焗鸡、梅州酿豆腐和红烧肉这些“老三篇”外,比较具特色的有:
客家盐焗鸡
“盐焗鸡”是广东的一款名菜。它首创于广东梅州及东江一带。300多年前的东江地区沿海的一些盐场,有人把熟鸡用纱纸包好放入盐堆腌储,这种鸡肉鲜香可口,别有风味。后来东江首府盐业发达,当地的菜馆争用最好的菜肴款待客人,于是创制了鲜鸡烫盐焗制的方法现焗现食,因此菜始于东江一带,而东江是客家所在地,故称这种鸡为“客家梅州盐焗鸡”。
水蒸鸡
选用家养或在山上用虫草谷物群养的鸡,整只放在锅里用水蒸熟,用手撕或刀切成六大块趁热吃,十分鲜甜滑嫩。另据资料介绍,这种用土法饲养的鸡比用精饲料养的其含氨基酸要高出10余倍,可见其营养价值极高。
全猪套餐
主要有选用猪最“精华”的八个部位的肉堡成全猪汤,蒸猪红、猪杂,红烧肉等,配吃一些青菜和家腌酸菜。这种吃法类似往时,客家人一年到头在春节钉杀猪时方有的口福。
全牛套餐
则是吃牛肚岗、牛柏叶、牛心顶和牛栓肉为主,和其它地方不同,这里吃的牛柏叶没有去掉上面的黑膜,据说主要是为了健胃。
豆腐套餐
客家酿豆腐传说源于中原时包饺子的习惯,因迁徙到岭南无麦可包饺子,想出了酿豆腐的吃法。客家人吃豆腐各种煮法都有,所谓豆腐套餐包括了餐前吃用的豆腐花,当主菜的煎酿豆腐、豆腐煲、豆腐丸、糯米酿豆腐、炸豆腐皮等,还有当小吃的豆腐乳等等。
新港湖鲜
万绿湖野生的桂花鱼、鳝鱼和石鲶鱼仔,肉坚滑、味清甜,不带泥腥,或蒸或炖或煎都很可口。
盆菜
流传广东、香港围村一带近千年的“大盆菜”,又名“大盆宴”,以黄氏为主,据传当年乾隆皇帝游江南时品尝后难以忘怀,遂仿之行“千叟宴”而名声大振 [8]
明、清两代,深圳下沙村民把盆菜称为“新安盆菜”,当时吃盆菜用木盆盛菜,一桌用一个木盆,一张八仙桌,四条长凳,八人一桌,俗称“吃盆菜”。后来下沙人丁兴旺,生活越来越富裕,闹元宵的人越来越多,就改称为“大盆菜”。他们称该村的盆菜是做工、配料、烹饪方式保存完好的正宗盆菜。 [9]
盆菜比之有来头的“一品锅”更富有乡土气息,看似粗粗的盆菜实质烹饪方法十分考究,分别要经过煎、炸、烧、煮、焖、卤后,再层层装盆而成,内里更有乾坤,由鸡、鸭、鱼、蚝、腐竹、萝卜、香菇、猪肉等十几种原料组成。盆菜吃法也符合中国人的传统的宗亲法度,一桌子食客只吃一盆菜,寓意团圆,一派祥瑞气象。大家手持筷子,在盆中不停地翻找,定然会呈现出情趣盎然的情景,而且越是在盆深处的菜,味道越鲜美。传统的盆菜以木盆装载,现时多数改用不锈钢盆,餐厅亦有采用砂锅的,可以随时加热,兼有火锅的特色。
客家小吃
客家小吃是客家饮食的另一部分,每种小吃几乎都与农事季节有关,或者说反映了一种客家习俗。
【正月元宵节】 元宵节客家人总要吃汤丸和悬挂花灯笼。汤丸有咸与甜两种,取“团圆”的好兆头。客家人的习惯是过了元宵节、吃了汤丸以后,就要送回家过年的亲人出远门,表示祝愿亲人一年在外平平安安、年底再回来团圆。在元宵节或早三几天,上一年“添丁”的人家要在祖屋中厅的梁上悬挂大花灯笼,并请亲朋好友前来吃洒祝贺,户主抱来去年出生的男婴先向先祖神位参拜,接着参拜长辈,长辈给“利是”表示祝愿,完毕后众人开怀畅饮,吃过灯酒,男婴就算正式加入家族行列,将名字注入族谱。一般是一个儿子挂一个灯笼,哪个围屋挂的灯笼越多就越光彩,表示人丁兴旺。
【二月二】 取下花灯,烧过年贴的对联、“利是”,清理、吃完过年时剩下的食品,如米糕、料花等,准备开春干农活。
【 三月清明】 这一期间野艾草比较鲜嫩,客家人就采来做成糍来吃。清明过后,就开始插秧了,所以有俗语说:“吃了野艾糍,肩头磨得损。” 在广州的万绿湖酒家里,还有一道叫做“野艾煎蛋”的菜式,据其朱老板介绍,野艾还具有清凉滋补的功效。
【四月八】 也叫水节,立夏节,因为是在表黄不接的时候,过节吃的食品较差,大多数吃的是杰米粉与麦皮混和做的糍。
【五月五端午节】 端午节吃粽子,以表示纪念屈原,还吃酿苦瓜和用刚收成的黄豆做的客家酿豆腐。
七月十四 上半年农作物的收成与下半年的耕种已基本结束,有喜庆丰收和放假休息的气氛,这天家家户户磨豆腐、吃鸭子,还要吃多种做法的新鲜花生。
【八月十五中秋节】 吃月饼、炒田螺及板栗、柚子、山梨等瓜果。月饼、田螺都表示团圆,这天外出做工的人都要回家过节。以往还有放孔明灯作娱乐的传统。
【九月九重阳节 】也叫鬼节,客家人祖上的二次葬都在这天进行。这天吃的小吃是九重皮。
【十一月】冬至客家地区有句话叫做“冬(冬至)大过年(春节)”,意思是比春节还要隆重,因为秋收冬藏,农事已毕,一年耕稼,丰硕喜人。这天吃的小吃是萝卜糍,由于这时天气寒冷干燥,所以客家人都在这一时节腊猪肉、腌咸菜等,准备过春节,这天腊的猪肉可保存较长时间。
The Hakkas dish as the Hakkas language euqally old, it is China food culture main component, the benefit city of main and popular Yu Andong, river source, Meizhou, Shenzhen, beautiful closes; The city of another name for Jiangxi Province of Jiangxi; The Long Yan of Fujian, lowing city; The He Zhou of Guangxi, Yu Lin; And other places of county of Taiwan peach garden, new bamboo county, seedling chestnut county. ? [1] ? ? The formation that the formation of gust of the Hakkas dish follows the Hakkas civilian to fasten is not divided, the life that the Hakkas dish is preserving Central Plains tradition is consuetudinary characteristic. ? [2] ?
Dish of traditional the Hakkas fascia is wine of saline chicken, the Hakkas balsam pear of chicken of abdomen of dish of basin of bean curd, the Hakkas, pig, wine, Mei Cai buckles soup of 3 cups of the flesh, duck, 3 pass an imperial examination, bloat river of face, moxa Hu , turnip Hu , bowl Hu , white behead, the mouthfeel lay particular stress on of the Hakkas dish " fat, salty, ripe " , in the develop a school of one's own in dish of another name for Guangdong Province or Fujian dish department.
Region of on the spot of the Hakkas dish will divide, have Meizhou school again, east river genre (benefit city, river source, Shenzhen east area of Home Jiang Ke) , boreal river genre (does beautiful close, the area of inhabit a region of the Hakkas person of clear far churchyard? [3-4] ? ? ) , Fujian on the west genre (long low, the area of Fujian the Hakkas such as Long Yan) , the genre austral another name for Jiangxi Province (the area of Jiangxi the Hakkas such as city of another name for Jiangxi Province) ? [5] ? ? .
Grow among them low (lowing city) (in November 2005) with Meizhou (in January 2006) the countryside of the dish of Chinese the Hakkas that announces for Chinese cooking association.
Classical dish type
Famous on a list of names posted up department points to east dish of Home Jiang Ke, dish of it and current course, another name for Guangdong Province calls 3 big vegetable of Guangdong is. Dish of traditional the Hakkas fascia is: Bean curd of chicken of Meizhou salt , wine and red carbonado. Compare with current course, the mouthfeel lay particular stress on of the Hakkas dish " fat, salty, ripe " , and this with the Hakkas person before standard of living and habit are concerned. Above all, because before agrarian hill of the Hakkas person lives hill, labor strength is great and meat or fish is fed little, fat be bored with the food of a bit can be effective allay one's hunger; Next, because the Hakkas person is long-term dearth, although compare wealthy large family one day to want to eat feed congee at least, year in year out of numerous other people pauses suddenly congee, and water much rice is little, the congee that Bao becomes " boast a wave, drink come an alley " , dish is salty suit to send congee already, increase share of the salt inside body again; Again, a mountainous area wood is much, nurturance the Hakkas person nots hesitate Chai Mu's habit, and they feel duration boil must be jumped over to food more sweet.
[raw ingredient is goluptious] indeed, the society is in change ceaselessly, in the socialistic new period nowadays, the Hakkas dish also is innovating ceaselessly. Traditional east river dish is in the boiler ahead of person of contemporary the Hakkas, formed oneself local characteristic stage by stage, have " former juice raw ingredient, goluptious and satisfying " beautiful praise.
Guangdong the Hakkas brews bean curd (3 pieces
[former juice raw ingredient] basically result from 3 respects: It is to choose makings be particular about feral home is raised thick planted food, did not pollute namely " green food " . Be worth what carry is, the quality of these food taste is good, good the zoology environment with the Hakkas person is good especially water is having very big concern very much; 2 it is cook method is used boil, Bao, evaporate and stew etc be in the majority, do not destroy alimental nutrition and fiber; 3 it is to seldom be added do not add even overweight too thick spice, flavor with raw onion ripe garlic commonly.
[goluptious and satisfying] alleged and goluptious satisfying, the department points to delicate mouthfeel, substantial price and harmonic action. Its are harmonic action is similar and contemporary term " dietotherapy " . Not rare method of treating yin deficiency by reinforcing body fluid and nourishing the blood falls in the Hakkas dish fire, clear liver is bright eye, strong lumbar filling kidney, raise Yan Yi gas to wait for effect. To 2014, the Hakkas dish brews bean curd and red carbonado except the saline chicken that has a tradition, Meizhou these " old 3 " outside, compare those who have distinguishing feature to have:
Chicken of of the Hakkas salt
"Saline chicken " a renown dish that is Guangdong. Its initiate is reached at Guangdong Meizhou east river one belt. 300 old before east a few salt field with river coastal region, somebody is good with gauze paper bag ripe chicken put saline caboodle to bloat store, xianxiang of this kind of chicken is goluptious, have a distinctive flavour. Later east river metropolis salt industry develops, the dish entertainment guest with food shop best contention of place, the method that contrived bright chicken irons saline to make then shows to be fed now, because of this dish only then Yu Dongjiang is taken, and east river it is the Hakkas seat, friend call this kind of chicken " chicken of of salt of the Hakkas Meizhou " .
Water steam chicken
Choose the home to raise or cereal of Chinese caterpillar fungus is used on hill group raised chicken, whole are put in boiler to use water steam ripe, be ripped with the hand or the knife cuts 6 chunk to take the advantage of heat to eat, very Xian Tian slips tender. Occupy data introduction additionally, this kind of chicken that raises with indigenous method raises than using concentrated feed its contain amino acid to want tower above 10 Yu Bei, its nutrition value is extremely high it is thus clear that.
Complete pig formula
Basically have choose a pig most " elite " the fleshy fort of 8 place helps sb to fulfill his wishes pig soup, evaporate pig red, pig is miscellaneous, flesh of braise in soy sauce, deserve to eat a few green vegetables and home to bloat pickled Chinese cabbage. This kind has a way similar past, guest family all the year round the luck to eat sth delicious of square when Spring Festival hammer kills a hog some.
Total cattle formula
It is to eat tripe hillock, Niu Baixie, Niu Xinding and bovine bolt flesh to give priority to, and differ elsewhere, the Niu Baixie that eats here does not have the black film above take out, basically be for be good at stomach allegedly.
Bean curd formula
Fokelore of bean curd of the Hakkas wine results from the habit that dumpling wraps when Central Plains, because migrate,dumpling can be wrapped without wheat south mountain, thought up those who brew bean curd to have a way. The Hakkas person eats bean curd all sorts of laws that boil have, used bean curd flower has before formula of alleged bean curd included food, skin of soya-bean milk of bean curd of wine of bolus of Bao of the decoct wine bean curd when entree, bean curd, bean curd, polished glutinous rice, blast, still have wait a moment when fastfood fermented bean curd.
New harbor lake is bright
The sweet-scented osmanthus fish with 10 thousand green wild lakes, eel and stone catfish young, the flesh firm Qing Dynasty of slippery, flavour is sweet, do not take slimy raw meat or fish, or evaporate or stew or decoct is very goluptious.
Basin dish
Circulate Guangdong, Hong Kong surrounds a village to take close chiliad " big basin dish " , renown " big basin banquet " , give priority to with Huang, as it is said in those days Qianlong emperor swims after sampling when Changjiang Delta hard dismiss from one's mind, the travel that satisfies copy " banquet of 1000 old man " and is reputation big brace up? [8] ?
Bright, clear two generation, sanded villager calls basin dish below Shenzhen " bring basin food newly " , eat basin dish to fill dish with tub at that time, one desk uses a tub, a piece of old fashioned square table for eight people, 4 pew, 8 people one desk, common says " dish eating a pot " . Sanded population is flourishing below later, the life is richer and richer, the person that does Yuanxiao is increasing, change call " big basin dish " . The basin dish that they call this the village is means of charge for the making of sth. , burden, cooking save in good condition authentic basin dish. ? [9] ?
Basin dish compares those who have interest " taste boiler " richer and agrestic breath, look be like thick method of rough cooking of basin dish essence very fastidious, should pass decoct, blast respectively, burn, boil, after stew, bittern, again layer upon layer load a tub and become, inside in have heaven and earth more, wait for composition of ten kinds of raw material by chicken, duck, fish, oyster, dried bean milk cream in tight rolls, turnip, Xianggu mushroom, pork. Basin vegetable takes a law to also accord with a relative moral standard of the Chinese's tradition, one table deadbeat takes a course only, the implied meaning reunions, send auspicious sign atmosphere. Everybody holds a chopstick, keep breaking up in the basin search, certainly can present the scene with a full interest, and the dish that is the more in the basin, flavour is more delicious. Traditional basin dish lades with tub, uptodate majority converts stainless steel basin, dining-room also has those who use arenaceous boiler, can heat at any time, hold the characteristic of chaffy dish concurrently.
The Hakkas is fastfood
Guest wife and children takes the another part that is the Hakkas food, every kinds fastfood concern with agronomic season almost, perhaps said to mirror a kind of the Hakkas consuetudinary.
[festival of lanterns of the first month of the lunar year] person of the Hakkas of festival of lanterns always should eat Shang Wan and suspension to spend a lantern. Shang Wan has Xian Yutian two kinds, take " reunion " good sign. The habit of the Hakkas person was to cross the festival of lanterns, after eating Shang Wan, be about to send a family member that the home spends the New Year to give far door, express to wish one year farewell of outer smooth smooth An An, the end of the year comes to the family member reunion. Be in the festival of lanterns or early three days, on one year " have a baby born into the family " the family wants the suspension on the bridge in the hall in ancestor house to spend a lantern greatly, before asking close friends, will eat asperse congratulation, householder adopts the male baby that will was born last year first Xiang Xianzu is magical a pay homage to, catch elder of pay homage to, elder gives " benefit is " express to wish, carouse of to one's heart's content of the everybody after ending, had had lamp alcoholic drink, male baby calculates join familial procession formally, name infuse pedigree of a clan. It is a son hangs a lantern commonly, the which lantern that surrounds house to hang jumps over glorious more more, state population is flourishing.
[Feburary 2] get off festive lantern, burn spend the New Year the couplet that stick, " benefit is " , clear, the food that when eating to spend the New Year, leaves, wait like flower of rice cake, makings, preparative beginning of spring does farm work.
[clear and bright in March] wild Ai Cao is more fresh and tender between this first phase, the Hakkas person is collected come make it Ci will eat. After Pure Brightness passes, began to transplant rice seedlings, so common saying says: "Ate wild moxa Ci, humeral head is ground caustic. " in the wineshop of 10 thousand green lakes that is in Guangzhou, still one is called " wild moxa omelette " dish type, according to its bright red boss introduces, wild Ai Hai has cool and refreshing and nourishing effect.
[April 8] also call water the section, section of the Beginning of Summer, when because be to be in,the watch fizzles out to be not received, celebrate a festival eating food is poorer, what great majority eats is the Ci that outstanding ground rice and wheat skin mix up do.
[in May 5 dragon boat festival] dragon boat festival eats a zhongzi, commemorate Qu Yuan in order to express, still eat wine balsam pear and the Hakkas that do with the soya bean of strong crop to brew bean curd.
In July 14 first half of the year of the harvest of crop and second half of the year cultivate to end basically already, be pregnant Qing Feng closes and have a holiday the atmosphere that rest, this day of every family grinds bean curd, eat a duck, eat the fresh earthnut of a variety of practices even.
[in August 15 the Mid-autumn Festival] eat moon cake, fry the melon and fruit such as river snail and Chinese chestnut, grapefruit, Shan Li. Moon cake, river snail expresses reunion, this is universal the person that gives do manual work should come home celebrate a festival. With contact the bright lamp that put hole makes recreational tradition.
[section of ninefold in September this world? ] also call ghost the section, 2 bury of ancestors of the Hakkas person undertake in this day. This day those who eat is fastfood it is ninefold skin.
[in November] area of solstitial the Hakkas has a word to be called " winter (solstitial) spend the New Year greatly (the Spring Festival) " , means is even grander than the Spring Festival, because autumn harvest winter hides, agronomic already finished, a year of agrarian sow, plentiful and substantial is satisfactory. This day those who eat is fastfood it is turnip Ci, as a result of at this moment weather chill is dry, so the Hakkas person is in this one season dried meat pork, bloat pickles, had prepared the Spring Festival, this pork of day dried meat can be saved longer.